Stratford is always full of ghosts. You can't move for them. (The RSC have now started running 'Ghost tours' on Sunday afternoons - predictably all fully booked when I tried to get on one. Probably just as well - who knows who'd pop up to greet me?)
I'm just back from a more spring-like Stratford - my second visit since Christmas - drawn back by the need to see 'Hamlet' - or perhaps more accurately, Anton Lesser as the Ghost. Lesser is one of the last links with 'my' RSC of the 1980s, of those glorious Newcastle seasons and the golden lads and lasses who would come and make our streets glitter with Shakespeare. And he was wonderful: mercurial, sharp, ageless, restless and oh so clear. His 'First Player' was like his Feste, only 40 years on.
It was a unique production - not least because they'd set it on a sinking ship - and there were some things I disliked about it - not least the addition of lines from RIII for Gertrude and the 'dancing' (pointless?) extras. However, Luke Thallon's Hamlet was excellent: his somewhat halting delivery of those (oh so familiar!) lines made them seem fresh and newly coined and I got some sense again of just how powerful and devastating Hamlet can be when you don't know it like the back of your hand... and there was a sense of theatrical tradition in at least one bit of business which was taken straight from Mark Rylance's performance in 1989.
There are so many ghosts in the walls of that theatre and, of course, up in the old Memorial Library where the shells of performances hang, pretending they're just costumes. The RSC again posted the 'Merry Wives' dress for Constance's birthday on Wednesday and I'd already visited it - and the windows - and indulged in a bit of birthday cake! That the Bensons and Bensonians are still commemorated in the theatre is reassuring, although I still don't think the RSC currently make the most of their history or heritage. I've really loved the productions I've seen there in the last two years but I worry that the short run system they are currently working to isn't really helpful for Stratford's survival. More shops and cafes had gone, even since I was there six weeks ago. Guest houses have disappeared from Rother Street and there's still no sign of life at the Shakespeare Hotel. I know February is 'out of season' - and that's always been why I've loved going there at this time of year, but I worry that so much of what made Stratford Stratford is dwindling. Like so many other towns, it is becoming a ghost of its former self - and if Stratford's cafes and shops can't survive, what hope is there for the rest of the country?
Stratford was sunny on Tuesday and drizzly on Wednesday. I was booked into the Birthplace Reading Room on Tuesday afternoon and Wednesday morning - not, of course, anything like the amount of time I'd want to be in there, but I do seem to be getting better at working out how long things will take me to look at. This time I was exploring the minutes of the board of the 'Stratford upon Avon Players' - the Company that replaced 'F. R. Benson and Co Ltd' from 1913 and dwindled on into the 1920s. It made for sad, if fascinating reading - the disastrous American tour, the winding up of the company and the wrangling over who actually owned the costumes, sets and properties that had stood FRB in such good stead for twenty years. For a while, Stratford and Benson had been synonymous, but by this point his star had waned and Stratford was pulling in a different direction. (I think the Board had Stratford's best interests at heart - the theatre had to outlive Benson if it was to survive. In today's current economic climate, with COVID era loans to repay and years of dwindling support for the arts in the UK, running a financially successful company whilst staying true to an ideal must be an equal challenge.)
I'd also reserved Matheson Lang's autobiography 'Mr Wu Looks Back'. Lang's photograph was next to HA's in Ruth Ellis's book about the Memorial Theatre and their careers ran roughly parallel, although Lang had notably more success as an actor-manager. Over the years, a copy of his book has eluded me - about the only theatrical memoir from the time I've been unable to buy. Although I'd looked at it before - many many years ago when I was just starting at this and the Reading Room was in its original setting - I'd been preoccupied with just looking for information about Henry Ainley and had not really focused on the other Benson bits.Written with intelligence and humour, Lang spins a good yarn: Benson comes across in the stories as a character of wit and some wisdom and Lang's love and respect for both Bensons is clear. Several of the stories he tells were repeated by J.C. Trewin but there were a few that were new to me: I particularly liked the story of Oscar Asche daring Lang to perform his small part in 'Twelfth Night' in broad Scots and Lang then having to talk his way out of being sacked in Benson's room immediately afterwards, Benson sending up a cup of tea to George Weir who had dried on stage as the Fool in King Lear, partly a result of the amount of alcohol he'd consumed before going on stage, and Benson attempting to get away with supering in King John at Stratford, only to be recognised by the audience.
Matheson Lang died in Barbados in 1948 and was then buried in Inverness, but I'd wager his ghost was definitely sitting beside me on Wednesday morning!
And so home, with the thought that, like Hamlet, I sometimes need a good ghost or two to spur me into action...